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The history of the Palace of Seton,
reaching back over eight centuries.
According to legend, Seier de Seton I founded the name of
the lands of Seton sometime around 1069, giving his name to
the area. It was Seier's son
and grandson who enlarged the first tower to become a more
commodious defensive castle, to which Philip de Seton secured
a Royal Charter re-confirming the lands to him and his
posterity, dated 1169.
With the lands of
St. Germains, Edmonstone,
St. Johnstoun, Winton, Falside and others encompassing the
immediate lands of Seton, it is of no wonder that those
famillies are of Seton descent; having been sons of the early
family who's surname was adopted from their estate; with the
Seton's of Winton called "de Winton" marrying the Seton
heiress, Margaret de Seton, and carrying on the House and
Family at Seton.
While the small Church of Seton
which stood beside the Castle served both the early family and
that of it's constant noble visitor's, it also served the
growing village of Seton which lay less than 1 kilometer to
the west of the Estate, and likewise which also was enlarged
over successive generations of the Seton Lords. And
while the Palace is largely gone, the Church still survives,
though somewhat defaced and missing the front
entrance-portion of the chapel.
As the
centerpiece of the Seton Family, the Palace of Seton stood on the
exact same spot on the Seton
baronial lands for upwards of
eight hundred years. The
original fortified castle was a square tower built during
the time of Seier de Seton sometime after 1066. It was
continually rebuilt and expanded by the successive heads of the
family, becoming a large castle-complex after the time of
William Seton, 1st Lord Seton, c1348, which style became the
hall-mark of the Seton's; noting some of the other similar
styled castle-courtyard complex's of St. Germains, Winton,
Niddry, the Seton-Townhouse in Edinburgh (near to the Palace of
Holyrood), Garleton, Barnes (incomplete), as well as those of
Parbroath, Touch, Meldrum and later, Fyvie.
With every successive generation from William 1st Lord
Seton onwards, the family acquired lands in the area around
their principle seat, and that of Tranent and Cockenzie; as far south as Pencaitland; as far east as Barnes; and as far west as Windygoul. The revenues from the estate, and from the
Templar and former church lands within the boundary of the Barony of
Seton, such as the old Templar "Hospital of St. Germains",
and from those of St. Andrews, and the various Priory's such
as Pluscarden and Dunfermline, which paid handsomely to allow for continual expanding of the
family's residence, later to be known as the Palace of Seton.
With the initial Tower of Seton, called St. Bennet's Tower
(after St. Benedict, the family's patron Saint) came part of the main
hall of Sampson, or Samson's Hall, as well as the later
Wallace Tower, all of which were severely damaged later in
1544, during the "Rough Wooing" of England's King Henry VIII. Irregardless, until such time the Seton Castle or
"Seton
House", was one of the most highly regarded residences in
Scotland throughout the Seton's tenure.
It's razing
during Hertford's Invasion was noted by the Lord Russel:
" frende with the Kynges Hyhnys' armye gives a most pithy
description of these proceedings ' in the yere of our Lorde
God 1544,' recounting the exploytes
performed under the blessing of God, and as God wolde who
doth all things for the best, and after longe soiornynge at
Newcastle for lacke of commodeous wundes gave that south and
south-south-weste wind, so apte and propice for cure iorney."
He tells how they " brente thabbey called Holy Rode Hous,
and the pallice adioynynge to the same ; " how " the fyrste
man that fledde [out of Liyth] was the holy cardy- Fragments
of nail lyke a valyaunt champyon;" and after relating "that
Scott ^^' after they dislodged their camp out of Lith,
having wan a late Ex- fortress on a strong island called
Ynchgarue. and set fyre in petition in euery house and
brente it to the grounde, and brente and reased Seton, the
cheife castell of the Lorde Seton, which was ryght fayre,
and destroyed his orchardes and gardens, whiche were the
fayrest and beste in ordre that we saw in al that cuntry,
and dyd hym the more despyte, because he was the chiefe
laborer to helpe theyr cardy nail out of pryson, the onely
auctour of theyr calamytie,"
Added to the
grounds were walls, terraced walks and gardens, similar to
those at Winton House only on a grander scale, commenced by
George, 3rd Lord Seton and first to be called "George", and
completed by his son, George 4th Lord Seton and second "to
be called of the name George". Also incorporated
was near the west side
of the house, part of the old castle consisting of a ruinous
apartment dimensions of which is about 9 feet by 7 the walls
are about 4.5 feet thick. This was the prison of the Castle
used on many occasions for only the most noble of detainees,
such as the notable Archbishop Sharpe.
The grandest of
the rebuilding-work was undertaken by George, 6th Lord
Seton, although it was his son George, 7th Lord Seton and "5th of
the name of George", who was the famed supporter of Queen Mary
during her troubled reign, who completed the work of his
father and
established the residence as a completed Palace. George, 7th Lord,
roofed the old Hall and rebuilt the ranges which comprised of
the apartments of State, where Queen Mary held court, as well
as her son, King James VI and I. The work of this grand
re-construction left the estate heavily encumbered in debt,
which cleared by his son, Robert 8th Lord Seton and later
1st Earl of Winton.
Used for the
rebuilding were architects of great skill, some foreign and
some of home origin, noting: William Schaw and William
Wallace as two who also continued works on other Seton
estate also such as Pinkie and Winton. In accompanying
the external work, were the internal works also of note.
Various galleries of painting were included, housing
portraits of great family members and notable kin, and
sometimes of a more general artistic nature.
The Armorial de Gelres as
well as that of Nisbet's writing illuminates how George 7th
Lord (called 5th of that name, referring to that of 'George');
"repaired the forepart of the house of Seton, and especially
that room called Samson's Hall (40 feet in height), which he
adorned with a roof of curious structure, whereupon are
twenty-eight large achievements, being those of Scotland,
France, Lorraine, and the noble families that were allied to
his family, curiously embossed and illuminated — the most
exact pieces of armories that are to be met with...".
Included were Arms of the various branches of the House of
Seton such as those of John Seton of Cariston, the younger
brother of George, 7th Lord, and who's Arms were there
displayed as: "Three
crescents within the Royal tressure gules ; in the centre an
otter's head sable for Balfour and charged one of the
crescents with a bezant, as on his seal.".
After the battle of Langside,
Lord Seton was obliged to retire abroad for safety, and was
an exile for two years, during which he was reduced to the
necessity of driving a wagon in Flanders for his sub-sistence.
He rose to favour in James the Sixth's reign and, resuming
his paternal property, had himself painted in his wagoner's
dress in the act of driving a wain with four horses, on the
north end of the stately gallery. Maitland notes on
the portrait were: He
"was there in exile two years,
and drove a wagon with four horses for his subsistence. His
picture in that condition,” adds the quaint, kindred
biographer of the noble family of Seton, “I have seen drawn,
and lively painted, at the north end of the long gallery in
Seton, now overlaid with timber."
The front to the south-east which appeared to have been built early
in the reign of Queen Mary (indicated
by the ceiling which featured the Coats-of-Arms of Scotland,
France, Queen Mary, the Dauphin and Hamilton etc., all of which
were surrounded by the French Order of St. Michael),
contained, beside other apartments,
a long
hallway,
a noble hall and
drawing-room, a
parlour, a great
bedchamber, dressing-room and closet.
The earlier front to
the north housed the apartments of State, necessary because Seton
Palace was frequently visited by Royalty which included James V
and Mary of Guise, Mary Queen of Scots, James VI, Charles I and
Charles II, and housed
three great rooms with 40 foot high ceilings.
The
rooms were finely
furnished after Mary Queen of Scots kept Court there on her return
from France, and to accommodate the many staff, the third front was full of good
lodging rooms and the outer Courts included numerous offices and a
Church or Chapel.
To defend this
impressive building, towers stood at every angle and on each
side of the gate, and the Palace of Seton, in it’s final phase,
had elements added similar in style to the family’s later house at Winton,
showing the influence of Elizabethan architecture in Scottish
architecture.
It
was indeed an imposing building; set around a large
triangular/quadrangular court stood three large general fronts
of freestone at least seven stories tall with various
castellated towers, some of which were of elaborate French
styling and varying heights, and a larger octagonal Italianate
watch-tower protruding upwards into the sky
According to
tradition, it was customary for the Earls of Winton once a year
to ‘ride the marches’ of their estates, which were so extensive
that a whole day, from sunrise to sunset, was required to ride in
state round the boundaries of their lands. On these occasions the
head of the house was always accompanied by a large retinue of
friends and retainers, mounted on gaily caparisoned horses, the
charger of the chief being arrayed in cloth of silk adorned with
gold tassels. The festivities which followed this ceremonial
lasted several days.
Serving the large and
active estate were the many sub-branches and the generations of
the family, which would not be left to chance of failure or lack
of security by person's of non-sanguine relation. The
lands of Monkmylne, Milton, Greendykes, Tranent, Cockenzie,
Seton Mains, Seton Miln, St. Germains and etc... all examples of
Seton family branches which maintained those lands which were
part of the Seton barony, and held them hereditarily and served
the main family's estate. From these branch also were
recruited and served the guards of the Lords Seton: his
200-strong mounted calvalry noted in various historical
accounts, such as the rescue of Queen Mary from Lochleven
castle.
Details to be noted about the grounds
surrounding the Palace are the curious dial affixed to
the wall of the bastion tower about 10 feet high, which forms
part of the boundary of the large old garden, where the top of the
stone forms a horizontal dial; the old bridge crossing the
stream between Palace and Church; the old main bridge at the
rear of the grounds that led into the Palace; and the walled and
tailored grounds used frequently by the Royal family for private
golf excursions, such as that famed by Queen Mary.
The Great Garden of
Seton was itself a substantial place of beauty and tranquility,
long known for first and finest fruits of the season.
Adjoining the garden and within the estate grounds was also a
brew-house for ale's, spirit's and wine's. The old Mill of
Seton or "Seton Miln", still in existence provided ground
grains as required from the farming surrounding the estate, and
the old water's of Seton, the stream which flowed through the
lands and estate out of the coal-pits nourished the land and the
people. The Seton's coal pits provided and endless supply
of fuel for heating and lighting, and likewise from the sale of
which, added to the revenue's of the family estate which was
known for it's self-sufficient nature.
The revenues of the
Estate were such as to allow for the son's of the house to be
adequately provided for with their own estate and studies
abroad, and dowry's for the daughters, as well as to expand the
residence and serve the Royal House in whatever capacity they
were called for. And it was this particular function that
the Seton family was focused and known for and held hereditary
office for; in the service and defense of the Royal Household
and Court and the defense of the country. Their reputation
being such, as well as the family's foreign Royal connections,
it is of no surprise that they are found to have served at the
Royal Courts in France, Spain, Italy, Denmark, Sweden, etc...
And likewise with the Templar-connections and the banking
systems, the principal family estate hosted a variety functions
and maintained influence throughout European circles, and was
known for elaborate masks and balls.
For more dire
circumstances for the Royal House, the estate could provide
protection for the monarch, and as noted in history, to provide
funds to assist in supplying whatever was needed for their
support while in exile.; where the last instance of this support
was from the 4th Earl of Winton for King James VII and his son
while in exile in France and Italy.
Serving the estate
were clergy and trade's of various styles: Priests were trained
at the Collegiate Church and ordained into offices; and the
trades of wrights, mason's, farmer's, weavers, merchants and the
like, many of which were hereditarily maintained under strict
rules, were instructed and well practiced by the endless
workings of the Seton family. Any "foreigner" wishing to
join into one of the Guilds had to petition not only the Guild
and the local towns people, but to court of Lord Seton as well
for admittance; a practice not uncommon in Scotland especially
during those times, but somewhat particular given the bloodline
family-nature of the Guilds and local population. The most
prominent of the family lines and several persons serving the
local community, often rose to significant positions serving the
estate and the court of Lord Seton, and could rise further to
serve that of the Royal court, where the Lords Seton were
hereditary Masters of the Royal Household.
Serving the Seton
household was of course a question not only of privilege, but
also one of honour, with the standards maintained at the highest
level. However, marrying into the household was a far
greater rich-prize indeed for any family wishing to increase
their status and fortune or influence with the Royal court;
practice that is long noted in Scottish history and also which
produced a civilized, productive and harmonious society that
thrived, and, which industrious society the Seton Estate was
long known for.
The Seton's had been
much involved in the affairs of Scotland's Royal Family, having
the privilege of their presence on many occasions over successive generations,
with the family's munificent tastes being much sought after by the
Scotland's Monarch's as a place of relaxation and refuge, was the
pride of the Family.
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