The Musselburgh Old Bridge of 3
arches, with cut-waters, measuring 248' in length by c. 14' over
the parapets.
The Romans had bridged the
river here near the end of the 1st century AD, and later
building the more permanent
stone-bridge, which foundations are dated of 6th-century
workmanship, and there has been a bridge on this site
ever since.
The original Roman Bridge
foundations were built over with a two arch structure in
mediaeval times, during the early 13th century, and in 1296 the
Old Bridge carried the Scottish army marching to the Battle of
Dunbar. In 1314, the English army crossed it following its
defeat at Bannockburn.
A watching brief was carried out
during the excavation of an engineering trial pit over the
centre arch of the medieval bridge. The pit showed that all old
road surfaces had been removed and replaced with modern concrete
and sand over the original stone bridge structure.
It was
first settled by the Romans in the years
following their invasion of Scotland in
AD80. They built a fort a little inland
from the mouth of the River Esk and
bridged the river here. In doing so they
established the line of the main eastern
approach to Scotland's capital for most
of the next two thousand years.
Musselburgh is the oldest town in
Scotland and has the oldest golf course
in the world.
The name
Musselburgh is Old English in origin
with mussel referring to the
shellfish, and burgh derived from
the Old English for 'town'.
The
bridge built by the Romans outlasted
them by many centuries. It was rebuilt
on the original Roman foundations some
time before 1300, and in 1597 it was
rebuilt again, this time with a third
arch added on the east side of the
river. The Old Bridge is also known as
the Roman Bridge and remains in use
today by pedestrians. To its north is
the New Bridge, designed by John Rennie
the Elder and built in 1806. This in
turn was considerably widened in 1925.
Musselburgh’s claim to longevity comes partly from its
connections with the Romans. That the Romans fortified
Inveresk Hill to the south of the town, where the town
church now stands, is well established. There is also
compelling evidence that they had a more substantial
settlement here and maybe even used Musselburgh as an
administrative centre for their northern territories.
Evidence
from elsewhere in the empire may suggest the settlement
is older still. The Romans were inclined to build
fortifications where there were existing settlements as
a means of controlling the population. If this is the
case then Musselburgh could well have been settled well
over 2000 years ago.
One of
the few remnants from the time of the Romans is
Musselburgh’s Roman Bridge. Rebuilt in the 13th and 16th
century, we could say that it survives, albeit in
altered form, to this day. There have also been a number
of Roman bricks found in some of the older buildings in
Musselburgh, such as St Michael’s church, said to owe
its foundation to the 6th century St Baldred.
Musselburgh’s claim does not just rely on its Roman
connections. It is argued it was the first town to
appear on medieval records too. The town was named
Eskmouth by the chronicler Simeon of Durham in the 7th
century, before the area had been fully established as
part of the Scottish kingdom. In 1018 Malcolm II secured
the area once and for all for Scotland at the battle of
Carham and in the treaty Muskilburgh is mentioned. The
emphasis here is on ‘burgh,’ a charter which gave town
certain rights. This is said to be the earliest
evidence, albeit indirect, of burgh status being granted
to a Scottish town, even if it was granted by the kings
of Northumberland. It was the Saxon tongue of the
Northumbrian kings which was used to name the town: so
named because the Forth was, and is, rich in mussel
fishing.
Regardless of the controversy over the age of the
settlement it became an important and famed part of
Scotland. In 1201 the nation’s nobility gathered there
to pledge allegiance to the future Alexander II, aged
just 4, in the presence of his father William the Lion.
In the fourteenth century the Regent of Scotland died in
Musselburgh after a long illness during which he was
cared for by the local people. When his successor
offered to reward the people they refused saying that
they were only doing their duty. As a result the
townspeople became famed for their honesty: since then
Musselburgh has been known as the ‘Honest Toun.’
It may well have been built, as is
traditionally said, by Jane, Lady Seton, who died in 1558. It
may incorporate part of a stone bridge that was certainly
standing in 1547, supposing this to have been subsequently
damaged or destroyed, as might have occurred, for example, in
1548, when Musselburgh was burned by the English.
An act was passed for the repair of a bridge at Musselburgh, and
the third arch was added in 1597; it was again before Parliament
in 1625 and 1639, and repairs are mentioned frequently in Town
Council records of the 17th century and later.
During
the 16th century ‘Rough Wooing’ (a name given to a
period when England attempted to further its territorial
ambitions on Scotland by forcing a marriage between
Henry VIII and Mary Queen of Scots) Musselburgh was the
site of the important battle of Pinkie Cleugh. The
battle is regarded as being the first ‘modern battle’
(involving coordination of the different branches of the
armies including naval bombardment to assist land
forces) fought in the British Isles and the last major
battle between the Scottish and English states. Fought
on the banks of the Esk in 1547, the Scots were routed:
half of their 30,000 number were slain and half were
captured.
Several
of Musselburgh’s oldest buildings come from the late
17th century, probably as a result of rebuilding after
the destruction of the war. Buildings such as Pinkie
House and the Tollbooth remain amongst Musselburgh’s
most emblematic.
While crossing the
bridge after the Battle of Pinkie in 1547, several of
the Scottish army were killed by shot from the English
ships lying off the mouth of the Esk, however the sea
has receded considerably since. Prince Charles
Edward Stuart led his Highland army across the bridge to
the Battle of Prestonpans in 1745, and again in
triumphant return to Edinburgh.
Stirling records that
during repairs in 1809, 'the face of one of the
buttresses' was opened up and 'inside the outer
building, remains of still older masonry resting on
transverse oaken beams was found.'
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